Travel Journal

2002-10-23

Another day in Istanbul

Beggar women here can be remarkably persistent.

I don't like crowded shopping areas any more when I don't understand the culture and language than I do at home.

Turkish delight is much less sweet (and thus, much yummier) than I expected.

We started out the day with a visit to the Topkapi Palace, where I particularly enjoyed the Harem. Interestingly, the mother of the sultan is the one who holds the most power in the Harem, but due to constant battles between the women for power, her life is also in danger during her normal daily activities. For example, in the sultan's mother's private bath, where she bathed entirely alone, there is a gilded cage across one of the washing areas. She would lock herself into this cage while washing her face and hair, so no one could sneak up on her while she couldn't see. These women obviously needed martial arts training!

I wasn't all that impressed with the treasury, though there was one large piece of jewellery that looked like it would be affixed to a headdress which was inset with two large (1 1/2 inches across) cabochon-cut emeralds and a matching ruby that I liked -- I thought the emeralds and ruby went particularly well together. There were also a couple of very impressive thrones, the famous Topkapi Dagger (made famous by the film, "Topkapi") and other relics of Ottoman opulence. Apparently, the items currently displayed are the ones the last Ottomans couldn't take with them when they fled into exile in the early 1920's!

After the Topkapi palace, we visited the Grand Bazaar, which John and I spent only a few minutes in, and then headed back to the hotel to load our bags onto the bus we'll be using for the rest of the trip. The bus took us to Istiklal street, in a modern shopping area across the Golden Horn, where we had lunch on our own. John and I opted for a Kebap place populated mainly by local people, and enjoyed ordering food off the menu without having much of an idea what it was going to be. (This is one of the things I really enjoy about travelling -- being surprised by the food!) It turned out to be delicious; we both wound up with versions of Döner Kebap meat with rice and yummy bread.

After lunch, we headed over to the Egyptian Spice Market, where John and I again didn't spend much time, though we did walk out with a small box of Turkish Delight. We then spent about an hour sitting in a nice park on the waterfront until it was time for the boat trip up the Bosphorus.

Our group got its own private boat, and the views on both sides were terrific. I especially enjoyed the juxtaposition of Ottoman splendor with modern high-rise buildings!

The boat put us ashore on the asian side of the Bosphorus, where we had a group dinner at a restaurant overlooking the Strait, and then headed to the train station for our 10:00 night train to Ankara. Our cabin is very nice, containing two bunks (the bottom of which converts to seats), a sink, a trash bin, a cooler with water and sour cherry juice in it, a countertop, and a luggage rack. And now, since breakfast is at 6:45, I'd best be off to bed."

Topkapi Palace

Istanbul

Egyptian Spice Market

Cruising up the Bosphorus